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March 9th, 2007

Guatemala and IWD

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Cross-posted from my other blog:

Yesterday, in honour of International Women's Day, we took in a screening of "Killer's Paradise" (http://www.nfb.ca/trouverunfilm/fichefilm.php?id=54178&v=h), the new NFB/BBC documentary about the killing of women in Guatemala.

Since 1999, in a country with a population of about 15 million, two thousand women have been murdered. This past year has proved to be no exception, with close to 600 women murdered in 2006. Amnesty International has been working for years to pressure the government to take action on these murders, and therefore, the topic is not a new one to me. However, it is still shocking that, as of the end of the making of the documentary, not a single arrest has been made in a single one of the 2000 murders. These murders are essentially done with impunity.

Although the film details the murders of these, primarily young, women and girls, and the attempts by their families to seek justice, it also highlights the efforts by human rights activist- themselves touch by the violence of the country- to also make changes and to bring attention to these deaths.

The film does not touch on the issues of race that are present in the country, perhaps for the sake of time. However, if one is even slightly aware of the power differences between the indigenous and ladino populations, it is striking to see that even the educated, urban, ladino families had no better a time getting progress made on their relative's case. It, in some ways, goes to show how endemic the problem of inaction is.

One of the statements that most encapsulates the situation comes from a North American. When a seventy year-old U.S. citizen and pianist is murdered in Guate, this film crew is there with their camera, filming the crime scene outside the house. A friend of the victim tries to intimidate the film crew from not filming the outside of the home, stating something along the lines of "I can do whatever I want in this country and get away with it." Apparently.

To take action, go here: http://www.amnesty.ca/take_action/actions/guatemala_march8.php

January 29th, 2007

Xela - the last leg

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Xela, Guatemala. January 12-15th, 2007. Well, final stop before Guate and home. I caught a little mini bus ot of Todos Santos which offered another lovely journey. Once in Huehue I had to make myself to the main terminal, by catching a local chicken bus.... by jumping through the emergency exit door at the back of it, backpack and all- but I did it, backpack and all. I caught a bus to Xela driven by a driver wanting to break a land speed record for chicken buses. The poor woman sitting next to me holding a child as almost falling out of the bench on the corners!

The bus station in Xela is almost in a suburb, which sadly, again, looks almost like a suburb in North America, Pizza Huts and all. I finally found the hostel I wanted, but by the time I settled, I finally had to admit that I was falling victim to the cold I picked up in TS. I knew that I was not up to the volcano hiking that people flock to this city to do. I also found that many of the cultural locales I hoped for no longer existed, but thought I would be happy to just wander around and hang out at the numerous coffeeshops, studying some Spanish from the newspaper, catching up on some blogging... and even watching some TV in my room. I realize now I'm a little burned out and accepting that I'm at the end of my trip. I visited a huge, excellent restaurant/coffeeshop that was plastered with hundred of little framed photographs of all ages and varieties. I could have stayed there all day soaking it in.

It is very strange to see what gets translated into Spanish on television ("Alf", "Different Strokes"- neither of which I watched, but wondered: why?) At first, I thought it would be a good idea to watch shows in Spanish for which I understood the premise, but without the lips moving properly it was too difficult. But who can pass up "Martha Stewart's Living" in Spanish? How strange to see her make these finniky projects in this context. And no, I didn't catch how they translated "And that's a good thing". I later acquiesced to just watching English shows and reading the sub-titles for words I didn't know.

To Guate, and then, home to Vancouver!

January 26th, 2007

Nebaj, part 2, and so on

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Nebaj, Guatemala Read more... )

Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Guatemala. January 9th, 2007. Read more... )

Todos Santos, Guatemala. January 11, 2007. "To the dogs".Read more... )

January 14th, 2007

Belize

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Hello again all... I'm winding things down here, so thought I would make a few last entries over the next little while to the blog. I am at a little internet cafe in Xela listening to the Sunday edition talking about a library closure in NDG Montreal. Makes me sad to hear what poor shape Quebec libraries are in (which I already knew, of course!)

BelizeRead more... )

Coban, Guatemala. January 2nd, 2007Read more... )

Uspantan, Guatemala. Read more... )

Nebaj, Guatemala Read more... )

January 1st, 2007

(no subject)

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Happy New Year everyone!

I love the new year and fresh starts. In Sri Lanka, the Buddhist religion dictates that every full moon is a holiday, (the country recognizes the holidays of four religions), which I think is a lovely idea.

Whenever I am away as I am now, I spend a lot of time thinking about the fresh starts I will make when I get home. Years ago, while in Nicaragua, I could barely sleep with the thought of how organized I was going to be when I got my new filing cabinet when I got home.

I haven't yet had a chance to review my last year's resolutions, but have already spent time thinking of those for the upcomiong year. They are rather mundane and repetitive: be more of a morning person, learn to cook, etc. I don't have my notebook with me, but here are some that I've thought about, in addtion:

1. Improve my Spanish to enable me to do more in depth human rights work about the region, in some capacity
2. Try to eat foods that are maily local, like on the 100 mile diet
3. Challenge myself to live for six months, starting mid January, car and plane free. I've been thinking about this one a lot. I have a lot of airpollution to make up with my flight here and back! I don't know if it will be possible, but I'm going to try.

So enough of that.

My boyfriend arrived safe and sound December 16th, as planned. I will write more when I have a chance, but it is hard to believe that he is leaving tomorrow, and that I am leaving in a scant fifteen days. My long saught after dream of visiting Guatemala is almost over. Although the temptation is to stay longer, I feel that I have been away from home for a very long time... because I have, given my year in Ottawa prior to here.

We visited the lovely Lago Atitlan, where in San Marcos we stayed at a funky ecological hotel, that was built on the side of a rock face, so our bathroom was filled with huge volcanic boulders, much to Russ' enjoyment. The place uses recycled glass to decorate.

We just returned from Belize, where we surpringly survived a week with his family fairly tear free.

I will be going on a trip along the less traveled route in the north of the country starting tomorrow, but will try to update the blog with an expansion of our last couple of weeeks,

HAPPY NEW YEARS!!!!!!

December 21st, 2006

Apocalypto

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From Nisgua:

With great concern about the new film, "Apocalypto," we are forwarding on two
pieces of analysis about the movie. We strongly urge folks NOT to pay to see
"Apocalypto," which opens today.


Apocalypto Critique
Prof. Gerardo Aldana y V
University of California, Santa Barbara
gvaldana@chicst.ucsb.edu

Having viewed a screening of Apocalypto at UCSB on December 3rd, I walked away
recognizing three main points within Mel Gibson’s movie. This first colors the
entire story, seemingly as a kind of guiding moral: “the good Indian is the
savage one in the forest.” There is absolutely nothing appealing about Maya
city-life in this movie—no indication that Maya urban centers flourished in the
region for hundreds of years. Instead, religious figures are depicted as
fraudulent or heavily drugged; political figures are fat and passive (both of
these characterizations having been lifted straight from The Road to El
Dorado); and everyone else seems to be living a nightmare of hard labor,
servitude, famine, and/or disease. The “Maya” living in the forest village, on
the other hand, are fantasized animations of National Geographic photos of
Amazonian tribes. These “hidden” Indians provide the audience the only
possibility for sympathy—and this perhaps restricted to puerile humor or one
family’s role as (surprise!) the underdog. For Gibson, it appears, the “noble
savage” remains a valid ideal.

Second, for having a completely clean slate upon which to write, the story is
pathetically unoriginal. From his decidedly Western constructions of
masculinity, gender, and sexuality, to the use of a baseball move in a critical
hand-to-hand combat scene, to lifting an escape scene from Harrison Ford’s
character in The Fugitive, one gets the sense that all of his creative energy
was invested in discovering ways to depict (previously) unimaginable gore. In
fact, I would be ready to write off the entire movie as nothing more than a
continuation of Gibson’s hyper-violent mental masturbation, except for the
real-world implications.

This leads me to the third point, and the real crime, which is Gibson’s
interpretive shift in his representation of horrific behaviors. Specifically,
four of five viscerally repugnant cultural practices that are here attributed
to Maya culture are actually “borrowed” from the West. The raid on the
protagonist’s village constitutes the first interpretive shift viewed by the
audience. The brutality and method of this raid directly replicate the
documented activities of representatives of the British Rubber Company in the
Amazon Basin during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In the
Amazon case, those perpetuating the human rights violations were European or
European-descendents against indigenous communities; the raiding of villages
for human sacrifice is undocumented for Maya cultures. Next, the slave market
depicted in the city constitutes a mirror image of the Trans-Atlantic slave
trade in the pre-Civil War United States. In that case, the “sellers” of
African slaves were Europeans or European-Americans, dehumanizing Other peoples
by treating them as commodities. While slavery is documented for Maya cultures
(and Greek, and Roman, etc.), there is nothing that attests to their having
been bought and/or sold in public market contexts.

A third objectionable attribution is that of decapitated human heads placed on
stakes within the city center. Documented examples of this practice come from
Cortes’s entrada into Central Mexico committed by Spanish conquistadors against
their indigenous “enemies.” Depictions of “skull racks” do exist, but there is
no evidence that these resulted from mass murder or even that they still had
flesh on them when they were hung. Finally, the escape portal for the
protagonist—the releasing of captives to run toward freedom while being shot
at—is straight from ancient Rome (or at least Hollywood’s depictions of Roman
coliseum “sports”) and finds no corroboration in records concerning Maya
peoples.

Heart sacrifice is the only practice that scholars have “read” from ancient Maya
cultural remains—although the scale and performance is Gibson’s fantasy alone.
The attribution of heart sacrifice to the Maya is largely anchored to Spanish
accounts of Aztec practices, which raises two additional issues: i) Mathew
Restall’s recent Seven Myths of the Spanish Conquest gives a good overview of
how unreliable Spanish accounts may be; and ii) Mel Gibson clearly could not
have substituted the Aztec capital for his “Maya” city given the same Spanish
accounts of it (e.g. Bernal Diaz del Castillo on approaching Tenochtitlan:
“With such wonderful sights to gaze on we did not know what to say, or if this
was real that we saw before our eyes. On the land side there were great cities,
and on the lake many more…”)

In any event, these perversions of the historical record appear to be Gibson’s
alone and cause me to wonder if they reflect an agenda. Whether he meant to
claim that all cultures have been as grotesquely violent or inhumane as the
West (and so in some twisted way, making such behavior “ok”), or if there is a
more nefarious attempt at disparaging Mesoamerican cultures in some sort of
justification of their “conquest” (implied by the pristine representation of
the Spaniards)—this is a question Gibson alone can answer.

Whatever his response, my assessment is that—apart from its “artistic”
license—because it takes the worst of the West and “reads” it into one or two
days of “Maya” civilization, this movie comprises an extreme disservice to Maya
(and Mesoamerican) cultures past and present, and to indigenous people of the
Western Hemisphere. The case is so extreme, I wonder if it might constitute a
legally actionable hate crime against Maya people. At the very least, though,
with this movie, Gibson has performed a tremendous disservice to scholars who
aim at accurate representations of the past, and to the audiences who will have
their perspectives of Maya culture tainted by the agenda of one man with too
much money.

*****

30 Nov 2006

'Apocalypto' is Pornography

With great trepidation I went to an advance preview screening of
Apocalypto last night in Miami. No one really expects historical dramas
to be accurate, so I was not so much concerned with whether or not the
film would accurately represent what we know of Classic period Maya
history as I was concerned about the message Mel Gibson wanted to convey
through the film. After Jared Diamond's Collapse, it has become
fashionable to use the so called Maya "collapse" as a metaphor for
Western society's environmental and political excesses. Setting aside
the fact that the Maya lived for over 1000 years in a fragile tropical
environment before their cities were abandoned, while here in the U.S,
we have polluted our urban environments in less than 200-I anticipated a
heavy handed cautionary tale wrapped up in Native American costume.

What I saw was much worse than this. The thrill of hearing melodic
Yucatec Maya spoken by familiar faces (although the five lead actors are
_not_ Yucatec Maya but other well known and fantastic Native American
actors) during the first ten minutes of the movie is swiftly and
brutally replaced with stomach churning panic at the graphic Maya on
Maya violence depicted in a village raid scene of nearly 15 minutes.
From then on the entire movie never ceases to utilize every possible
excuse to depict more violence-it is unrelenting. Our hero, Jaguar Paw,
the charismatic Cree actor Rudy Youngblood has one hellavuh bad couple
of days. Captured for sacrifice, forced to march to the putrid city
nearby, he endures every tropical jungle attack conceivable and that is
_after_ he escapes the relentless brutality of the elites. I am told
this part of the movie is completely derivative of the 1966 film The
Naked Prey. Pure action flick, with one ridiculous encounter after
another, filmed beautifully in the way that only Hollywood blockbusters
can afford, this is the part of the movie that will draw in audiences
and demonstrates Gibson's skill as a cinematic storyteller.

But I find the visual appeal of the film one of the most disturbing
aspects of Apocalypto. The jungles of Veracruz and Costa Rica have
never looked better, the masked priests on the temple jump right off a
Classic Maya vase, the people are gorgeous. The fact that this film was
made in Mexico and filmed in the Yucatec Maya language coupled with its
visual appeal makes it all the more dangerous-it looks authentic,
viewers will be captivated by the crazy exotic mess of the urban city
and the howler monkeys in the jungle. And who really cares that the
Maya were not living in cities when the Spanish arrived? Yes, Gibson
includes the arrival of clearly Christian missionaries (these guys are
too clean to be conquistadors) in the last 5 minutes of the story (in
the real world the Spanish arrived 300 years after the last Maya city
was abandoned). It is one of the few calm moments in an otherwise
aggressively paced film. The message-the end is near and the savior has
come. Gibson's efforts at authenticity of location and language might
for some viewers, mask his blatantly Colonial message that the Maya
needed saving because they were rotten at the core. Using the decline
of Classic urbanism as his backdrop, Gibson communicates that there was
absolutely nothing redeemable about Maya culture, especially elite
culture which is depicted as a disgusting feast of blood and excess. No
mention is made of the achievements in science and art, the profound
spirituality and connection to agricultural cycles, or the engineering
feats of Maya cities. Instead, Gibson replays, in glorious big budget
technicolor, an offensive and racist notion that Maya people were brutal
to one another long before the arrival of Europeans and thus they
deserve, in fact they needed, rescue. This same idea was used for 500
years to justify the subjugation of Maya people and it has been
thoroughly deconstructed and rejected by Maya intellectuals and
community leaders throughout the Maya area today. Pan-Maya
intellectuals have demonstrated convincingly that such ideas were
manipulated by the Guatemalan army to justify the genocidal civil war of
the 1970-90's. To see this same trope, this clearly Western fantasy
about who indigenous people were (and are today?) used as the basis for
entertainment (and I use the term loosely) is truly embarrassing. I am
embarrassed for my race that we continue to produce such one sided and
clearly exploitative messages about the indigenous people of the New
World.

Before anyone thinks I have forgotten my Metamusel this morning, I am
not a compulsively politically correct type who sees our little brown
brothers as the epitome of goodness and light. I _know_ the Maya
practiced brutal violence upon one another-I have studied child
sacrifice during the Classic period, etc. And I loved Braveheart, I
really did. But there is something very different about portraying a
group of people who are recovering from 500 years of colonization as
violent and brutal. These are not Romans killing Celts. These are
people who are living with the very real effects of persistent racism
which at its heart sees them as less than human. To think that a movie
about the 1000 ways a Maya can kill a Maya when only 10 years ago Maya
people were systematically being exterminated in Guatemala just for
being Maya-- is in any way okay or entertaining or gods forbid,
helpful-is the epitome of a Western fantasy of white supremacy that I
find sad and ultimately pornographic. Ultimately it is best to conclude
(and this is surely no surprise to most of us) that Apolcalypto has very
little to do with Maya culture and instead is Gibson's comment on the
excesses he perceives in modern Western society. I just wish he had
been honest enough to say this. Instead he has created a beautiful and
disturbing portrait that satisfies his need for comment but does
violence to one of the most impressive of Native American cultures.

Traci Ardren, PhD.
Assistant Professor of Anthropology
University of Miami
Editor, Ancient Maya Women (2002) and The Social Experience of Childhood
in Ancient Mesoamerica (2006)

Quetzil E. Castañeda, Ph.D.
*Founding Director
Open School of Ethnography and Anthropology, OSEA
*Visiting Professor, Spring 2006-Spring 2007
Latin American and Caribbean Studies, Indiana University




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December 12th, 2006

An update

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Hello again! And I can believe I getting into what is the home stretch of my trip! Barely over a month left! Russell gets here on the weekend, and hopefully I will be in guate to meet him! I´m going off to a nature reserve soon and hope to not miss the boat back which leaves at 5 a.m. I´ll keep my fingers crossed. What have I been up to? Well, things that seem bloggable in the present do start to loose their interest weeks after the fact, but given that people´s blogges are truely procrastination device, I´ll recap.

"Do you know the way to San José?" Read more... )

"Cold enough for ya?" Read more... )

"Time flies" Read more... )

"That will be ten Q" Read more... )

Take this job and shove it Read more... )

More proof that Darwin had it right Read more... )

My biological clock is ticking like this! Read more... )

"Working nine to five" Read more... )

Down on the finca Read more... )

December 10th, 2006

Happy International Human Rights Day?

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Hello all,

yes, a longer post on the way... promise. I was happily (despite the need for such a day) going to offer you all greetings for International Human Rights Day, but can´t get passed the irony of Augusto Pinochet dying today. I think it ends such a long, strong struggle to bring a dictator to justice, whether it would have happened or not, and I have to lament it. I wanted him tried, I wanted evidence shown, I wanted some closure for the families of the disappeared and dead. I wanted him made an example of.

Happy International Human Rights Day! To future victories and an end to violations around the world!

December 9th, 2006

I{m alive

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Hello everyone,

I know I have been out of touch lately... but when I move on to a town with better internet access I will do a long update!

November 28th, 2006

Posting of birthday greetings

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Just a late attachement, given that the computers are getting switched and I think these won´t get saved! Some of the kids I was teaching some computer skills used Paint a couple of weeks ago for birthday cards. I´ve never attached an image to a blog, have no idea if it´ll work.

sorry for the lack of updates, I´m winding up here (tomorrow should be my last day at the Project... famous last words), and I´ve been pretty wiped lately, and away on the weekends.

I´ve heard all about the weather all over Western Canada. I kinda want some snow, the coziness of having to go home early and drink tea because you can´t go out.

More later, I promise. Miss you all.

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